The Fashion Week Run-Through – NYFW AW25/26

Here we go again: New York Fashion Week AW25 just happened and in case you are too lazy to read in depth about every show, here is a quick overview to give you an impression of everything you may have missed out on…

Here is the Fashion Week Run-Through – NYFW AW25/26: Decide for yourself if you want to know more about each show…

Brandon Maxwell

This is what the cool girls wear to the office – just add Gisele Bündchen in DWP glasses. The draped scarf situations!!

SLOAN

Very intimate presentation at the Ritz Carlton, addressing the complexities of femininity in beautifully classic garments.

Todd Snyder

I don’t know if it’s the location or the collection but this gave me boarding school vibes and I’m not mad about it.

Christian Siriano

If the red carpet wasn’t hint enough, these garments are probably not meant for your daily grocery shopping. Loved that white asymmetrical number some of the shiny fabrics looked to customy.

Gabe Gordon

“Rubber Boyfriend” is the glamification of the wrestler that needed lessons in how to embrace their femininity and treat a girlfriend right.

Collina Strada

Actually felt diverse! Beehive / bird vibes? She-volution. Insect-like shades – ultra cool. Plus upcycling done right.

Jane Wade

Spy-wear or office-core brought to a next level? Whatever it is, I know which coats I want to see (and possess) next season…

Christopher John Rogers

The Angela de la Cruz and Hélio Oiticica references are unequivocally what gives this collection its joyous spirit. Truly love! Reminds me of that vacation I need to take. Also did you catch that peplum number?

Theory

Understated and quiet chic. Love the different high necks in this one.

VETTESE

Some I loved, some I didn’t understand. But then I guess “the importance isn’t in the analysis”.

Calvin Klein Collection

Veronica Leonie’s debut – amazing on the catwalk, falls a bit flat in pictures but I am glad CK us back on the catwalk.

AKNVAS

“Palace Escape – Fragmented Royalty” was giving princess giving no more Fs about etiquettes. Huge platter collar capes, a tad tacky but it does work somehow.

FFORME

I was about to vent that it seems like when thinking of AW every designer results on taking out their blacks, greys, browns and pops of red. Then I discovered a a pastel pink look. Now I don’t know if I like the fit. But big fan of the fringe details though.

Juzui

Floral patterns, a bit of animal print, wild combinations. Brave styling plus I see every model off-duty wearing those boots on their iced latte runs.

Lafayette 148

“WOVEN STORIES”, very focused on the materials and craftsmanship. Beautiful presentation with weaving looms as backdrops, drinks and good conversations.

Ashlyn

Peplums are making a comeback. Each ensemble felt like a gust of fresh wind blowing into guest’s faces eliciting a new-born desire.

CAMPILLO

Torero meets streetwear. I don’t know if that was the idea but that’s what I got from the cinched shirts and the coats.

SIMKHAI

Somewhere above the city a love letter to contrasts was showcased in the new AW25 collection. Textures and silhouettes played with different techniques of distressing and adding drama. Loved.

Sergio Hudson

The designs felt very dynamic and empowering without compromising on femininity. Sharp tailored suits came with silky shirts in shades of purple or soft greys. There was one tweed set I could not see anyone in, but we’ll forget it in the grand scheme of clothes.

LEBLANCSTUDIOS

“Other People’s Money” was more than a classic fashion show, making a quiet yet deafening statement with models scooping salt from another model holding a vessel filled with it and then walking along the catwalk with it slipping through their fingers – like time, like power, like money. This deserves a whole written piece about it and not just my one-liners here.

Kim Shui

Loving the lace-fringes-distressed-fur pieces! I think the fit of some pieces could have been even better but this is the first time I have seen a vest on a woman and did note hate it! Also I want the massive chandelier that was just in the middle of the room – even though it is probably bigger than my entire apartment.

Chuks Collins

A dialogue with nature and oneself. A very warm presentation that put some light on one aspect which sometimes gets lost during fashion week which is bringing people together to celebrate the beauty that can be found and created in the world.

Altuzarra

I can see almost every look – including the styling – being translated into the daily lives of Manhattan’s elite. Maybe that was aided by the hair and make-up which, according to Joseph was supposed to be very natural and individual to each models, just as if they had done it.

Eckhaus Latta

A collaboration with Casetify which had models running around with their phones mixed with the occasional bong and a fairly simple location gave a laid-back atmosphere of just witnessing someone walk to their friend’s house. Would have loved to see models interacting with phones more, such as actually being – or at least pretending – to be on the phone with someone.

Anna Sui

Loud, bold, fun, a wild pattern mix. Sartorial art of being an heiress and don’t we love watching the rich? Genuinely iconic.

Alice + Olivia

Always positively surprises me. This collection was inspired by Shakespeare – from his plays, costumes, clothes and worlds, everything played into these beautiful garments that evoked dreams of faraway places.

5000

5000 served 5000 ways on how to slay in a suit. Highly appreciated the skirt combination!

Prabal Gurung

First I thought there was some cohesiveness missing in places. Then I looked at the entire collection again and how it flows from lighter hues to then integrating dominant pops of red and light green and then moving towards darker tones such as purples and browns and now I am bewitched.

Christian Cowan

Silicone bubblegum dress – Christian bit into every single piece to get the shape right! Now that is dedication.

Bevza

Clean and sophisticated lines with – was that braided rope? – details which I absolutely loved on the dresses, a little less when an entire top was made out of it because it did not create the nicest shape in my very humble opinion.

Khaite

The circular catwalk was a reference to the famous yellow brick road from Wizard Of Oz – David Lynch’s favourite film. The director served as Catherine’s main inspiration for the new collection.

Ulla Johnson

The handwoven catwalk created the illusion of the models walking on liquid gold and gave an already beautiful collection an ethereal vibe.

Jonathan Cohen

Inspired by distracted fighters, this collection was an ode to women and the power and assuring life essence the possess in tumultuous times. Did you spot the lining of some pieces was out of leftover fabric from the last collection? Loving me some small sustainable details.

Sandy Liang

Major nostalgia moments reminiscing of playing dress-up with mum’s clothes and your fairy princess dresses as a child.

Melke

Emma took the name of the collection “The Supper Club” playfully literal by creating a diner inspired presentation showcasing dresses with sewn-in/ -on cutlery and giving out matchboxes. The Hidden Valley Ranch dressing mascot perfectly completed the fashion feast. Served, ate and left no crumbs.

LaPointe

Located in a gymnasium, started with a killer dance performance and presented a fabulous spectrum of monochromatic looks.

Meruert Tolegen

I loved the red hues under the eyes – it’s giving “I am not okay but my fit’s still a slay” and that is just on being a woman.

Monse

This is what you will find going through your rich aunt’s closet who is just lounging in her pyjamas all day, sipping a Bloody Mary and casually handling a multi million dollar business. Absolutely smitten with the boat shoes!

Tia Adeola

Happy 10th anniversary! Lagos vibrancy meets New York City coolness. Someone get me the “Stop Copying” dress.

Elena Velez

Wronged siren who’s out for revenge. Anna Delvey on the catwalk. Elena knows how to put the female body into the best possible light.

Carolina Herrera

The models walked through a field of flowers high up in the clouds with the New York skyline as backdrop. It’s one of those shows where you’re like “This designer loves women”. Audrey Peters, I am waiting to see you in that pink minidress with the flowers!

TWP

Some of those layered looks made me want to start a guessing game on how many pieces this collection entails. It’s giving ultimate capsule wardrobe.

Zankov

“I Can’t Help Myself” – being absolutely fabulous? I can tell! A collection that drew inspiration not from classic visual source but more of the people who fuel and inspire Henry. Emotions made visuals.

Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen

“i’m in love with everything and i know nothing at all” is not only the collection title but also the first thing that went through my head when I saw Zoe’s latest designs. Confusion due to not having read up on what to expect before the show was overshadowed by an overwhelming feeling of awe by shapes that got me excited to take a closer look and find out more.

Coach

I love myself some fluffy slippers and those bunnies can hop right on my wish list. I’ll fly Coach if it’s AW25.

Kobi Halperin

Another 10 year anniversary was celebrated with tapestry inspired fabrics, golden threads, glittery fringes and headpieces my closet needs asap.

Bibhu Mohapatra

Inspired by the traditional Indian pilgrimage performing the traditional rites for Bibhu’s late parents and brother, this collection was the visualisation of taking something incredibly painful and turning it into something irrevocably wonderful.

Diotima

“Matriarch” was inspired by predominantly Black and Caribbean grandmothers who are often portrayed as stoic and strong only. Rachel wanted to show nuance by combining impeccable tailoring with traditional handcrafts such as macramé.

Pamella Roland

The location honestly reminded me of ballroom dancing meets beauty pageant which “A Love Letter To London” was probably not about, even though some of the gowns might suggest otherwise… What I did love was the leopard blouse paired with the sleek trousers though I think another fabric would’ve looked even better but then again it might just have been the lighting.

Tory Burch

I wanted to love this collection more than I did. Don’t get me wrong, there were a lot of designs that twisted American sportswear to perfection but I guess I wanted just a tad more?

Luar

No words. I may talk shit about you but I will vanish before I say anything bad about this collection in Spanish. Do your homework, look it up.

LaQuan Smith

LaQuan’s AW25 woman exudes power and confidence and is well aware of that. Sharp tailoring and bold glamour come together in creating the ultimate wardrobe for a woman in total control of herself.

Michael Kors

The look with the mid-sleeve fur jacket, long brown gloves, plisse skirt and boots is the superstar of this collection! The sequin looks however…

Kallmeyer

Served coffee and looks. Absolute lifesaver for decaffeinated fashionistas running around fashion week and also the designs kept me awake and evoked fantasies of running out for an iced latte in between work meetings. Plus live piano music. My heart is full. Thank you.

Cucculelli Shaheen

Embroidery overload meets cool cutouts. Live band and models walking the stage more than the catwalk. Very crowded.

Dennis Basso

Presentation and collection were giving debutante ball meets tea time at the club and I am not mad about it.

Frederick Anderson

From a Carmen opera moment delivered by J’Nai Bridges to pop-diva vibes for the finale. This show was musically iconic.

Romeo Hunte

Personally not a fan of a Canadian Tuxedo and I don’t know if I loved the staging itself that much either to be honest.

Thom Browne

Thom always manages to transport you into his own world, this time filled with origami birds and plaid on plaid. The structure of the shoulder coats? Magnificent.

I hope you enjoyed the New York AW25 edition of the Fashion Week Run-Through. Until London AW25 starting on the 20th of February.

Lead Image Courtesy of Instagram @ashlynnewyork

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