William Fan – Berlin Fashion Week’s Incomparable

“Fashion is the most powerful art there is: It’s movement, design and architecture all in one.” – B. Waldorf. Berlin Fashion Week took over the capital on the first weekend in February and if you didn’t go to the William Fan show – are you even anyone in fashion? But just in case you missed it…

Attending another show, two girls in the row behind can be heard whispering “Are you going to the William Fan show?” “No! It’s so hard to get in there!” And yet somehow I did. This is how it went…

Image Courtesy of Nicolas Kawohl

Murmurs about this season’s location circulate the rooms everywhere I go. Past shows have taken place on the Fernsehturm at Alexanderplatz for AW20, the Olympia Stadium for AW24 or the Postdamer Platz – The Tunnel SS23 – a location that seemed to inspire Namilia for SS25. In a world of constant online visibility, William likes to maintain some mystery by keeping the location of his show top secret until the day before the actual show. Not even close friends are in the know which makes the surprise of being suddenly invited to the Berliner Philharmonie for the brand’s 10th anniversary titled “ALTER EGO” just even more special.

Image Courtesy of Jakob Stolz

Doors are supposed to open at 3:15pm with the show starting at 4pm and a piano concert at 4:25pm. Doors open around circa 3:40pm and apart from the show being worth every single minute spent outside, us Berliners enjoy the sun showing its face on the first Monday in February and soak up every ounce of vitamin D we can get. I twirl around in my golden Paco Rabanne x HM sequin skirt a little birdie told me to wear that day and stumble right into the lens of Jeremy Moeller.

Image Courtesy of Jeremy Moeller

Once inside, the “check-in” and seating procedure turns out to be beautifully smooth and uncomplicated and sponsor Kiko Milano stops by to apply a last round of lip gloss so guests can get a glimpse of catwalk model treatment. In case you did not know, this is me officially announcing how much I love, love, love personal details and the seat cards having guest’s names handwritten on them just made my day. I don’t know who stayed up late and how many cards were being thrown out in the process but I hope you know your work is appreciated!

Image Courtesy of Diana Pfammatter

The official gong rings out asking us to take our seats. The room slowly grows quiet and then: Music. The tunes of Howl’s Moving Castle fill the room, models strut down the catwalk wearing the latest William Fan creations. The collection took inspiration from traditional Peking Opera, known for its elegance, drama and multi-faceted characters. Reflecting on the past 10 years and 19 collections results in the conclusion that – just like the opera – life is also full of ups and downs, unanticipated turns and ever-changing roles. The concept is beautifully represented in the intriguing patterns, draped details and diverse materials. While watching more and more looks walk by, I perceive classic William Fan silhouettes: elegant, with traditional details and modern touches.

The music changes to Palladio: I. Allegretto (Arr. for String Orchestra) – which I recognise from my Spotify favourites, to 忘記他, a pop song by Cantonese / Taiwanese singer Teresa Teng, then Venom by Little Simz. A musically wild ride that would normally give me whiplash but for some reason it all harmonises perfectly and supports the concept of the dramatic Peking Opera with its surprising twists. While my ears are occupied by this eclectic soundtrack, I am being mesmerised by the textures and the overall vibrancy of the clothes after two season’s of rather quieter collections.

Draped scarves, embroidered waistcoats, a modern interpretation of work wear, beaded bags, coats and suits tailored beyond perfection – and the boots, a reinterpretation of the brand’s beloved design! My personal, niche highlight was the “Annabelle Bronstein” top (reminiscing of Sex And The City’s Samantha Jones’ alter ego that she uses to smuggle herself into Soho House’s rooftop pool during a particularly hot few weeks in summer) and a grey knit ensemble with silver details. In the time I am being distracted, shazaming the soundtrack, a familiar face serves looks and a walk with pizzazz – the name is on the tip of my tongue, my brain is too starstruck and I notice my jaw is not the only one hanging slack in awe. A split second later, like thunder it hits me: Bruce Darnell! The American choreographer and model every fashion obsessed German learned to love from Germany’s Next Topmodel is closing the show.

Kate Bush’s Wurthering Heights starts playing, the models come out once more, the applause is euphoric, William runs through the crowd, I spy one or two tears in people’s eyes – a minimum of three in mine.

We are ushered into the Kammersaal of the Philharmonie for a piano concert – models standing on one side, guests sitting on the other. For a moment I am nervous, knowing I am missing the Maximilian Gedra show right now, which also counts as one of my personal favourites, then I catch the first keystrokes of the piano and my entire body and mind relax, soaking up the uniquely breathtaking experience. I will email the PR later for the assets and send Maximilian a message. This right now is too special to not fully indulge in.

Image Courtesy of Jakob Stolz

All in all: I am deeply grateful to have been kindly invited to this very special show and anniversary. This brand is pretty and smart – it’s a catch! Happy 10 years, William Fan! To the next 10!

Image Courtesy of Nicolas Kawohl

Last notes:

  • I want the official show soundtrack as Spotify playlist!
  • “Annabelle Bronstein” needs to go into production! Please William Fan team, we need this to happen! I also like my money right where I can see it – hanging in my closet!
  • Thank you for the SHEER lip gloss! I first thought it’s a lip stick and was positively surprised when I opened the package (not every colour fits everyone, you know the drill).
  • The models? Beautifully selected! We all know how crucial the right constellation can be for a successful catwalk. Street casting seems to happen way less these days than it used to and we all know it doesn’t always turn out the way one hopes for but William Fan‘s team seems to have the model equivalent of a green thumb for finding seemingly ordinary people in a cafe, at the flea market and other places and practically turning them into supermodels over night. Sprinkle in some seasoned models and one or another actor (such as Wolfgang Bahro aka Jo Gerner form GZSZ) and have Bruce Darnell close the show and there you have a foolproof recipe for a successful model cast.
  • I did not notice the “Chuck/Ed” shirt because I was too distracted by the fabulous coat so a big thank you to the team telling me about it and sending me all look book images!

Lead Image Courtesy of Nicolas Kawohl

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